Los Angeles. Life in a big village
I was sure that Los Angeles was huge, consisting entirely of skyscrapers and noisy freeways... Imagine my surprise when, after living there for about a week, I realized that a substantial part of this huge city is built up with low cottages—regardless of the neighborhood. They differ only in size and cost. I rented a small studio apartment (a room, a kitchen, and a bathroom) for $620 a month—not expensive by local standards. In the Mexican neighborhood where I settled, the houses are small and mostly nondescript, while in Beverly Hills, for example, they are large, ornate, and solid; even the wrought-iron fences show style and the hand of a designer.
In the city, as it turned out, there are indeed skyscrapers. They are concentrated in the business district, but it is relatively small—you can leisurely walk from one end to the other in an hour.
I expected life in this city to be bustling, but imagine my surprise when I discovered that in a metropolis with a population of more than 10 million, there are practically no people walking the streets—only cars. Local residents doing their daily jogging were a rare exception. There are, it must be said, plenty of lovers of this exercise. Perhaps because there are very many overweight people in the United States; this immediately catches the eye.
In the very first days I had problems getting around. The fact is that Los Angeles, as it turned out, is not at all like, say, New York, with its well-developed public transport network, huge streets and sidewalks, and pedestrians always hurrying somewhere. If New York is a business center, then Los Angeles—pardon the comparison—is an expensive bedroom community. The city has an extensive, multi-level subway, which is what saved me. There are few other kinds of public transport because everyone uses private cars. When I asked an acquaintance of mine what to do if I didn't have a car, she spread her hands and said, “You'll have to buy one.” Comments are unnecessary.
But Los Angeles does not always seem empty. On Friday evenings the city comes alive. People appear in parks and in numerous restaurants and bistros. On Saturday and Sunday the parking lots near supermarkets and stores fill with cars—on weekends it is customary to do the week's shopping. I took a liking to a chain of stores with the enticing name “99 Cents.” All goods there cost no more than that magic sum. You can buy anything: clothes, underwear, groceries, personal hygiene products, printed matter, dishes, toys, and much more. And everything is new, though mostly made in China. In general, Chinese goods are very common in America. Electronics are mostly represented by Japanese and American brands. European products are hard to find, and if you do find them, they are usually more expensive than their American equivalents of the same quality.
On weekends, after lunch, the city en masse heads to Santa Monica—to the beach. This town is a half-hour drive from Los Angeles. The beach is amazingly clean and well kept, probably because of the fines provided for vacationers who litter. By the way, I have never seen such sterile cleanliness as in California anywhere. Trash cans are rare on the streets, but no one would think of throwing garbage just anywhere—fines are quite high, and God forbid you throw something out of your car window: you will most likely be fined a large sum, about $800.
On the beach, surfers attract attention—it seems as if everyone does this sport. The Pacific Ocean is always cold. In summer it is warmer, about 18 degrees, in winter 12-13. But Americans, it seems, are not bothered by this. They swim and ride their boards in special rubber suits. Next to the beach there are many small cafeterias. Everything is very convenient and practical, American-style.
On weekends, the outskirts of Palomar are also a popular place for recreation. At the foot of this high mountain there is an Indian reservation, where local residents grow lemons, oranges, and other citrus fruits for sale and own their own... gambling business. The fact is that gambling establishments are prohibited by the California state constitution, but the reservation is not subject to it. So the local casino, and with it the chief and the whole reservation, prosper.
On one of the slopes of Palomar is the complex of the famous Palomar Observatory, which can be visited with a tour. Thousand-year-old forests cover most of the gentle slopes of this mountain. From here there are extraordinarily beautiful views, making this place an earthly paradise for nature lovers and landscape painters.
Want to go to Crimea? Then San Francisco is for you!
It is impossible not to fall in love with San Francisco. This colorful city on the hills captivates at first sight. The first thing you notice is the small, brightly colored streetcars scurrying around the city. It is interesting to watch passengers clinging to the streetcars, standing on the running boards. This public transport is unique. The streetcars are driven by cables located under the roadway, hence the name—cable car.
San Francisco is a city where you can feel a soul and homely comfort. It seems that it has a special little corner for every guest. Arriving here, I felt that I was in Kyiv again – an abundance of green trees, streets with whimsical outlines going either up or down, cute low-rise apartment buildings. When I went down to the embankment, I had a sensation of déjà vu – I had landed in Yalta. The same long embankment hewn in stone, sea vessels, and palm trees. This feeling was intensified when I approached a noisy market, almost like ours, except that here traders were not grandmothers and lively young women, but mostly Mexicans, of whom there are very many in California – the Mexican border is, after all, right nearby. The huge Golden Gate Park, home to the local landmark Shakespeare House and magnificent Japanese-style gardens with Buddha statues, numerous little bridges, a true rock garden, and beautiful green terraces, will hold your attention for a long time. The entrance fee is symbolic, and the pleasure of the silence, the splendid landscapes laid out by artists and designers, the harmoniously inserted architectural details will simply compel you to peaceful contemplation of nature.
Americans call California the Golden State, which is quite witty: this is where people with substantial capital live, and California's luxurious nature is, without a shadow of a doubt, the country's gold reserve. Although the true reason for this association is California's golden sun, which generously bestows the state year-round with warmth and the money of numerous tourists.
A few hours' drive from San Francisco is the unique Sequoia Park, birthplace of the tallest trees on Earth. When you come to this astonishing temple of nature, you will have to leave your car in the parking lot, paying a small fee for entry to the rangers who guard the forest and keep order. The air in the park is so clean and filled with oxygen that it makes your head spin. In general, California has very clean air – this is due not only to the proximity of the ocean and winds, but also to the reverent attitude toward environmental issues: for example, an emissions test is a mandatory annual procedure for all car owners. Therefore, even in noisy Los Angeles, the air is always clear and clean.
Smiling nation
All the Americans I met always asked the same thing – where I had come from. For Americans, this is a standard topic for conversation, just like the weather for the British. During the time I lived in America, I never felt any biased attitude. When I said I had come from Ukraine, they invariably replied with something like: "Oh! My acquaintance's father came from Ukraine" or "My great-grandmother moved to America from Ukraine."
Unfortunately, for all their outward openness, Americans are rather reserved in relationships. In six months I failed to become a friend of any of them – although I have many pals with whom I communicate daily over the Internet.
Eating out the American way
Americans, as a rule, do not eat at home – not only because they are too lazy to cook, but also because cooking yourself often turns out to be more expensive. My attempts to indulge in culinary experiments made my acquaintances both delighted and confused at the same time. The fact is that natural products are relatively expensive – unlike convenience foods and canned goods. Later I started buying groceries at sales, the ads for which would show up in my mailbox in advance. Then I dropped the habit of eating at home and became like my American counterparts.
Chinese buffets enjoy constant attention from local residents. Such as Taste of China, where I regularly had breakfast and lunch. There are many such establishments in Los Angeles: if you see a sign reading all you can eat buffet ("a buffet where you can eat all you want"), go right in – this is the place for you. The atmosphere is homely, cozy, and unpretentious. You pay $6-8 per person and can choose anything your heart desires from a large Swedish-Chinese table, then sit at a table and – enjoy your meal! Repeating this procedure several times is not prohibited. At the end of the meal, charming waitresses will come up to you, kindly inquire whether you liked the cuisine, and also offer free green tea or, for a modest charge, alcoholic beverages or other drinks. Do not forget to leave $2-3 in tips for this act of courtesy – and soon you will become a favorite patron.
What also surprises one a lot in America is the absence of young people in the streets and in the subway – and not only drunk, but simply with a bottle of beer in their hands. Drinking alcohol in public places is subject to fines.
Only in America have I seen people so sacredly believing in their country, their freedom, and the principles of democracy. So devoted to their dream, the American dream. In no other country have I seen so much national symbolism and so many flags. One can argue for a long time about America's politics, about their true face, but I am sure that on that face there will always be a smile, and in the heart – pride in their home.