New Year is celebrated here at a temperature of 25 degrees and humidity of 80%. The local weather service reports two temperatures every day: the actual and the "sensación térmica" – the temperature that a person feels. Due to high humidity, the second figure is always higher in summer and lower in winter than the actual temperature, so in winter at ten degrees above zero you already don't know where to hide from the cold.
But the differences are far from over. Here, cats roam the rooftops, while there, dogs do. In all private houses, roofs are flat and have railings. By the way, very convenient for both dogs and their owners. But the owners of the evening streets – young hooligans – are not to be envied. They have neither their own back alleys, nor attics, nor basements. The Argentine capital is an endless number of tightly built blocks, where entry to any back alley is only through a keypad lock, and everything else, as a rule, is bare asphalt and bare concrete.
These Argentines are strange. They drink wine undiluted only on holidays, and on ordinary days they mix it with soda. In public transport, when they accidentally bump into each other, instead of "where the hell are you going" they say "excuse me." And they dress – "the opposite way." In Buenos Aires, there are plenty of stylish clothing stores, fashion shows are held almost every week, but this is not reflected on most Argentines. The cult of "tasty and healthy food" has completely replaced the cult of clothing: even young people rarely sacrifice their stomach for the sake of appearance.
But besides differences, there are also some similarities. In the huge Buenos Aires, you don't have to be afraid of getting lost: they will definitely explain to you in detail how to get somewhere. In this sense, the residents of the Argentine capital are very similar to Kyivans. True, sometimes, without realizing it themselves, they can send you in a completely different direction...
Argentines, just like us, like to argue about politics. By the way, they too, after the word "politicians," often follow with the word "thieves," and every election campaign presents voters with something fresh-scandalous. During the last Argentine presidential election, information about the involvement of some politicians in arms and drug trafficking began to appear again in local media. And although their country also knows its "heroes," cases rarely go to court, just like in our country.
Another similarity that is hard to miss: if the government fails to provide all citizens with bread, it at least gives the people more circuses, or at least does not interfere with those who produce these circuses. In this series of phenomena, they, like us, have a huge interest in football, a sexual revolution in the media, and endless series on television.
BABYLONIAN LONELINESS
Having found myself in Buenos Aires, instead of southern exoticism I encountered a huge city – dirty and noisy. My first impressions of this megacity could be built into the following associative series: concrete labyrinth... gas chamber... vacuum cleaner city... Babylonian pandemonium... Narrow sidewalks, hot stagnant air, terrible gas pollution from countless old buses and cars. If any of our "tough guys" were put into one of those rattling and smoking cars and forced to make a "lap of honor" through the native streets, he simply would not survive such shame. But the Argentines – they don't care! They drive around and at first glance are quite content with life. However, just ask them for a job, and immediately a story about local problems begins: "Well, where were you before!? We have a crisis now. Almost half the factories are closed, the country is flooded with cheap goods from Brazil and China. The local unemployed have been joined by immigrants from all over Latin America. And on top of that, your people from the former Soviet Union are coming..."
Unfortunately, all of this is true. True, one should make a small allowance for the fact that complaining about life is as habitual for Argentines as it is for us Ukrainians. So they complain. Not knowing, of course, what a crisis is in Ukrainian style. And for all that, Argentines can hardly be reproached for a lack of patriotism. I have met adults who almost cried when they learned of the defeat of the Argentine national football team in the World Cup. You should see the serious faces of the local children when, at the beginning of the school year, the national flag is solemnly raised to the sound of the anthem in the schoolyard! And foreigners who wish to validate a diploma obtained outside Argentina often have to take exams in Argentine history and literature in addition to their major. I don't know about you, but personally, such requirements seem quite logical to me.
As for the life of our people there, at first I could not bring everything I saw and heard to some common denominator. Some are ready to admire this country, from others you hear nothing but negative epithets and three-storey swear words. Although, this is not surprising. It all depends on how each one is settled. One of the emigrants told me how one day friends got him a job at a small paint factory. Not considering himself a white-handed person, he was sure he could handle it. But what he saw at the factory seemed like a nightmare: dirty premises, instead of exhaust ventilation - ordinary drafts, stuffiness and constant stench from various solvents. And on top of that, at the end of the shift, he had to climb into huge tanks to clean them of paint residues. An overseas version of "chemistry" if you will! In short, my acquaintance lasted no more than a week at this job. Health, as they say, is more important.
The first Spanish word that our people memorize like the "Our Father" is "mañana" (i.e. tomorrow). You come to a potential employer and hear "mañana." You come the next day, then a week later, and eventually you find out there is no work for you. You ask: "Why keep a person running around?" National tradition, you know, you can't refuse at once – it would deprive a person of hope...
Sometimes, while visiting the consular department of the Ukrainian embassy in Argentina on my journalistic business, I saw our people who came here with their problems. The faces of some of them expressed despair. Seeing such faces, you understand – these are those who did not take root in foreign lands, those who were finally broken by the difficult emigrant life. Their usual request: "Help us return home!" Unfortunately, the employees of our embassy cannot always help. Last year, the embassy sent several people back to Ukraine who had "earned" various ailments in Argentina – up to mental disorders. But they were sent at the expense of relatives: the embassy's budget does not provide for such charity.
And our people continue to go to Argentina. Sometimes with whole families. They sell apartments, almost "for a bag of crackers," hoping to earn more...
IF YOU STILL DECIDE TO TAKE THE RISK
Argentines are a polite and friendly people. But there are a few things that our fellow emigrant needs to remember to avoid getting into trouble. For example, never tell an Argentine that his favorite football club is no good – you will make a mortal enemy.
Do not even think about walking at night in poor neighborhoods of Buenos Aires: you risk losing your money and possibly even your clothes. In wealthy neighborhoods, you can stroll until morning.
It is best to buy groceries in large supermarkets or, as they say here, "supermercado." There, products are always fresh and often cheaper than in small shops. And the selection is simply impressive.
A few recommendations specifically for men: do not try to get to know local girls after drinking. They don't trust even sober men much. Meeting on the street is unlikely here – that's what discos are for. There, at least, no one will shy away from you. And if you don't meet anyone on the first evening, it's no big deal – you can try the local cocktails. Just don't overdo it. If you already have a job, it's better not to show up with a hangover in the morning...
And now about more serious matters. It is best to carry out the procedure for legalizing all necessary documents in Ukraine before departure. Translating just one document into Spanish and notarizing the Spanish-language copy in Argentina can cost $100!
There is no state program to help emigrants in Argentina. Finding housing, work, learning the language – all these are purely personal problems for those seeking a better life. In order to process all the necessary documents and buy airline tickets, our people sometimes have to sell their apartment, and this practically "cuts off" their path to return.
The ideal option: the head of the family goes overseas alone and only later, if he manages to find permanent work and cheap enough housing, calls the family. Under no circumstances should you come to Argentina for work on a tourist visa, which does not give the right to employment. It is practically impossible to replace a tourist visa with a work visa in Argentina itself.
To confirm a diploma for those who want to work in their specialty, they have to "chew the granite of science" again. To defend the diploma, you need to pass all exams externally according to the program of one of the Argentine universities (naturally, in Spanish). You also need to have with you the curriculum of the higher education institution in Ukraine indicating all studied disciplines. The curriculum must be translated and legalized at the Argentine embassy in Ukraine.
There are a wide variety of rumors about Argentina, often contradictory. But if someone tells you that you can earn 2-3 thousand dollars in this country, do not believe it! Among the many emigrants I know, only three earn $1000-1500 per month. The usual earnings range from $200 to $700 per month. It depends on luck...