Wasit Province, for example, which by fate became the area of responsibility of the Ukrainian peacekeeping contingent, has about 900,000 inhabitants. The population here is predominantly Shiite (about 97%), among which the main ethnic groups are Zubeidi and Ubeid-Raja (the area of the Iran-Iraq border), as well as Khawashim, Lam, Janabi, and Oragor. It so happened that during the rule of Saddam Hussein, who by origin was a Sunni, the province automatically fell into disgrace. Therefore, its economic development was not only halted but had a negative indicator.
The standard of living here is uncertain. You can easily see clusters of mud houses of simple square architecture only as tall as a human, with ... satellite dishes on them. Even during Saddam's time, residents were forbidden to have such modern technology - the country prospered under a regime of isolation from the outside world, whose observance was zealously monitored by the dictator's state appointees. The people had the opportunity to watch only local and all-Iraqi television programs. Even Iranian television, which could be watched using a simple wire antenna, was jammed by special devices. The dictator needed an illiterate, intimidated, obedient, and hardworking people.
Today the situation in Wasit Province is changing fundamentally. People can afford to watch American shows, Mexican soap operas, Iranian news, and Western erotic programs. True, provided that electricity is not cut off. And that is still practiced here - not all power lines have been restored after the war, and local power plants are not operating at full capacity.
Until the economy improves and small and medium-sized enterprises are put into operation, unemployment and poverty flourish in the province. People are ready to do any job - as long as they are paid for it. And even if it is just a promise, they will gladly do everything, trusting the boss.
Knowing that there are not enough jobs for everyone, people try to survive by any means. The past war generously 'rewarded' the land of Iraq with all sorts of explosive objects. Before the arrival of Ukrainian peacekeepers, artillery shells, anti-tank, anti-personnel, mortar mines, large-caliber rounds for anti-aircraft guns, and small arms ammunition, which had not even been removed from their special packing boxes - 'zincs' - were literally scattered in many places. Local craftsmen, at their own risk, extracted TNT from large artillery shells, and then, having prepared simple explosive devices, used them to stun fish in the Tigris or demolish abandoned brick buildings. In the latter case, the scattered, slightly deformed building material was collected onto a cart drawn by a donkey and taken home. Brick is very highly valued here.
However, people often blew themselves up while dismantling ammunition. This became a threateningly progressive phenomenon. Therefore, the provincial authorities turned to Ukrainian sappers with a request to remove and eliminate all of Wasit's 'combat legacy.' It is worth noting that our guys coped with this task in a fairly short time. True, they had to work all day long virtually without breaks under the scorching 45-degree sun.
Having lost the opportunity to use, albeit deadly, but still 'means of production,' the people began to look for other ways, for example, fishing. And then such an interesting human invention as the car battery came to the rescue again. It is placed in a boat, wires are run along a long stick, at the end of which a net is attached, and it is successfully used as an electric fishing rod. A fish paralyzed by a small current floats up and immediately falls into the fisherman's net. A couple of hours of such fishing brings an almost two-bucket result. And believe me, no fishing inspection works on the great Tigris River! There simply is no such environmental protection structure here.
Another source of income for some of the population is the trade in combustible materials. Gasoline and kerosene are sold here literally for pennies and by barrels. Rarely - by canisters. 50 liters of high-quality gasoline can be bought for $4 to $8. Depending on how you negotiate. And in general, bargaining is always appropriate in Iraq. It must be remembered that at the sight of any foreigner, the price immediately jumps several times. Therefore, bargaining with a local seller is a rule of good (and necessary) manners.
Before the arrival of Ukrainian peacekeepers in Wasit Province, American Marines served here. For them everything was simple: whatever amount the Arabs asked, the Americans would pay. But soon even the wealthy Yankees began to notice prices brazenly rising right before their eyes. This forced them to enter into disputes regarding the pricing of goods. By the time the Ukrainians arrived, for $1 one could buy three cans of cola or similar drinks. Moreover, a mandatory condition - they had to be chilled. For this, local kids began to briskly purchase foam plastic boxes with a volume of up to five buckets. As it turned out, if you put pieces of ice in such a 'thermos,' all drinks cool perfectly and remain cool for a long time even in 50-degree heat. By the way, one 'sleeper' of frozen water a meter long and 30 cm wide costs $1. The same teenagers sell ice right on the street from morning until evening.
The most tireless and brisk street vendors are boys. They usually sell “consumer goods.” If they notice a slowing car with foreigners, they immediately swarm it, offering their wares. Without leaving your spot, you can instantly become the happy owner of a pocket watch on a chain with a picture of Saddam Hussein on the lid, sunglasses, a bayonet for a Kalashnikov assault rifle, a CD player, banknotes from the fallen regime, batteries, a camera, cigarettes, and everything you need and don’t need. The only ones you won’t see among the teenagers are girls.
All of them are busy with household chores or playing in small, cramped courtyards. Only occasionally, despite the prohibitions of adult family members, do they allow themselves to peek over the high gate or through the gates onto the street and, after glancing at the passersby, quickly hide back inside. Older girls are more than modest on the streets. They, like shadows in light black robes, glide from home to educational institutions, to their workplace (if there is one), to the market for shopping, and quickly – back. If she complains that someone harassed her, it won’t be resolved without at least a payoff, and at worst, without bloodshed. Relatives will definitely take revenge. According to local traditions, insulting or simply speaking to a girl who does not wish to listen to you leads to a one hundred percent “tough” showdown. Sometimes it goes as far as the destruction of the clan, which can number up to 70 people. Blood vengeance here, as strange as it may seem to a European, is held in unshakable honor.
Andrei LYSENKO,
Al-Kut, Republic of Iraq.
Specially for “Zagranitsa”.