Negril's oldest building is the lighthouse built in 1894. The original discoverers of these places were "flower children" – hippies who, in the early 1970s, took a liking to this paradise for lounging on the coastal sand. They were followed by more respectably dressed people, and construction of luxury hotels began.
In the 1980s, hippies returned, but in a different capacity: they were lawyers, doctors, businesspeople, coming to their favorite spots for a couple of weeks, and since then, the village of five thousand residents has grown significantly. In spring, American schoolchildren flock to Negril's hotels and bars, and from the first weeks of August, numerous Jamaicans come for their vacations. Negril's beaches are also popular among affluent older American women who "pick up" young Jamaican men there.
There are few tourists from Russia in Jamaica, which is understandable – just the cost of the flight. A one-way ticket with a stopover in Europe, for example in Frankfurt or London, can be bought for about a thousand dollars. With a short layover, this option is quite feasible – about three hours to Europe, then another 11 hours to one of Jamaica's two airports – Montego Bay or Kingston. Better, of course, to Mo-Bay, as it's called locally – it's in the tourist part of the country. A stopover in the US is also possible, for example in Miami or New York. In addition, three years ago, after a 30-year hiatus, direct flights Moscow – Montego Bay resumed: travel time about 13 hours, price from 45-55 thousand rubles round trip.
Imagine your plane lands at Montego Bay airport – the country's second-largest city and port. Sangster International Airport (named after Jamaican Prime Minister Donald Sangster) is located right on the shore of the Caribbean Sea, with runways starting at the water's edge. From the ground, it seems planes land directly on the water. And from the longest private beach on Jamaica, just a 10-minute walk from the airport, it's especially interesting to watch aircraft of all countries and modifications take off and make impressive turns over the azure sea.
Mo-Bay is the center of the local entertainment and recreation industry, a concentration of luxury "5+" hotels, many built on the site of former sugar plantations. Accordingly, in the city center you can admire still intact but already crumbling examples of colonial architecture – remnants of former British rule, which ended in 1962.
The city is divided into three parts: poor residential areas, hotel zones along the coast, and villas of wealthy Jamaicans on the hillsides. Here and there, colonial mansions and windmills survive. For very wealthy tourists, several good golf courses are open (thanks to the British, this sport is highly developed on the island, and the local Manchester Golf Club, founded in 1868, is the oldest club in the Western Hemisphere).
As for Kingston – the capital and main port of Jamaica, the largest English-speaking city in the entire Caribbean region, was founded by the English way back in 1693. It is truly a historic, albeit rather shabby, place. In the 19th century, Jamaica's administration was located here. The city gained capital status when the island gained independence. Kingston's poor neighborhoods are the birthplace of reggae music, which, as is known, developed from "ska" music – a mix of African, European, and Latin American motifs.
The city consists of two parts – the historic center and New Kingston. Population is 580,000 people. The majority are Africans (over 70%) and mestizos (about 15%), the rest are from Europe and Asia. The official language is English, but people mainly communicate in local dialects.
There is no shortage of hotels in Jamaica – from the simplest and cheapest to ultra-modern complexes steeped in luxury. Service in terms of staff efficiency in many leaves much to be desired, but over time you realize that this is essentially just a trait of the national character. Jamaicans must be accepted as they are: 80% of the population is in the gray economy and don't pay taxes, no one is in a hurry, everything is unhurried, all to reggae.
In wealthy areas, there are also quiet, well-maintained villas that can be rented entirely or partially, booking a separate room – that is, getting the same services but for less money. The motto "Jamaica. No problem!" which has become something of a national idea on the island, is perfected there – the staff is usually impeccably trained. So, if you have enough money for a plane ticket and patience for the flight, don't skimp on a hotel of at least 5 stars, or better "5 plus."
Overall, modern Jamaica is no longer a hippie island populated solely by Rastafarians and marginals. Half a century ago, tourism in Jamaica indeed began with parties organized by "flower children," but today the music on the island is called by other clients – wealthy Americans, Canadians, and Europeans. Luxury, indulgence, sensual pleasures are in vogue. Some are here solely for pleasant idleness, but there are also many who come to actively have fun.
However, one should not be deluded by the possibilities of a luxurious life. Outside the hotel fences, the situation is entirely different, including in terms of crime.
Tourists are rightly advised not to wander alone outside the gates of resort reservations, especially after dark and without knowledge of the language. Solo tourism on the island has never caught on. I, for example, never met a single traveler on the local highways – everyone travels only in groups and on buses.
So, when going to Jamaica, do not go for a walk in Kingston – there are plenty of shady characters who might go after your wallet or safety. Better to relax on hotel grounds and beaches and move within tourist routes. And view the local exoticism from afar. And don't skimp on tips – Jamaicans love that. Then everything will truly be 'no problem'.
Vladimir VOSKRESENSKY.
Photo by the author.
Based on materials from IA 'Rosbalt'