Green absinthe
"Absinthe in Switzerland" is an excellent topic for a fascinating social study, which will inevitably be interwoven with the amusing and tragic stories of hundreds of thousands of people. By studying the role of this very strong alcoholic beverage, one can make several extremely interesting observations not only about its production technology but also about the Swiss, who, despite an almost century-long ban, continued to distill it illegally, preserving unique recipes to this day.
In 1910, Switzerland, following its neighbors, adopted a prohibition law regarding absinthe. For 95 years, the herbal liqueur, nicknamed the 'Green Fairy' for its characteristic emerald color, was illegal. According to the authorities, the popularity of absinthe threatened serious consequences for the nation's health. No such restrictive measures were taken against schnapps or strong liqueurs; apparently, these drinks were considered less harmful.
Only in 2005 did the 'Green Fairy' become legal again in Switzerland. It would seem that such a long period would inevitably lead to the disappearance of production techniques that were invented back in the late 18th century. One need only recall the anti-alcohol campaigns in the USSR, which destroyed the best vineyards in Moldova, Crimea, and the Caucasus. Winemaking in these regions still cannot restore the lost varieties.
And if Soviet officials managed to achieve such 'results,' how did the exemplary and law-abiding Swiss manage to preserve traditions by violating the prescribed norms?
"This is a very rare, perhaps in some ways unique case of disobedience to laws," says Jan Klauser, director of the newly opened museum, in an interview with 'Nasha Gazeta'. "It sounds strange, but we are truly proud that we did not strictly comply with the authorities' demands. Swiss absinthe originated in this region; it was distilled in almost every home for many decades. Was it worth destroying that? Of course, while the ban was in effect, the police periodically conducted checks and put violators in prison, but after each raid, locals continued to produce absinthe illegally. Their courage helped us today to recreate the old recipes and open the House of Absinthe."
History likes to be ironic: the House of Absinthe is located in the very building where the gendarmerie was housed throughout the last century. It was also where 'moonshiners' caught during the next raid were sent.
Why did the authorities so oppose absinthe? How is the 'Green Fairy' more dangerous than schnapps, beer, or wine?
"Several factors played a role," explains Jan Klauser. "First, consumption of absinthe grew to unimaginable proportions. Imagine, in little Switzerland alone, about 1 million liters of the drink were produced annually, and in France even more – 36 million liters. Naturally, excessive consumption began to affect public health, and the authorities took radical measures. Second, the rising wine producers, who did not want to tolerate market competition, helped pass the prohibition law."
Absinthe was not just banned. An aggressive propaganda campaign was launched against it, the consequences of which are still felt today. For example, many are sure that the drink is illegal, although in fact the ban on it has been lifted almost everywhere in Europe. It is also believed that absinthe affects the psyche like psychotropic substances, causing hallucinations and visions. But, as studies have shown, its effect is not fundamentally different from other strong alcoholic drinks.
The peculiarity of absinthe is that its very high alcohol content (from 50% to 80%) is almost imperceptible in its bitter taste, so a person can become drunk quickly and unexpectedly. It must be said that drinking this drink, whose color can range from green to red, blue, and yellow, is as special a ritual as wine drinking.
All of this will be told to you at the House of Absinthe, where you can, of course, try local varieties, which are made using 14 different herbs and plants in addition to the mandatory bitter wormwood. While tasting the drink, do not forget to exercise moderation, or the 'Green Fairy' may visit you as well.