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Gourmet guide

The Taste of a Greek Vacation

As a columnist for Lenta.ru writes, the term "fast food" is incorrect to apply to Greek street food. Eating on the go is considered disrespectful, first and foremost to oneself, and business lunches essentially do not exist. This is a country where public catering is not just one of the industries, but rather an element of national culture.

Greeks, as a rule, are excellent cooks. Two-thirds of television airtime is occupied by culinary shows. Greeks living on the islands spend about as much time at meals as we do at work.

If you have ever been to Greece, you have probably noticed that portions in Greek taverns are usually designed for several people. The fact is that eating is a process associated with pleasure, which requires free time and good company. Dining alone is considered harmful and even antisocial. But what to do if you are hungry and dinner is still far away?

Souvlatzidiko (translated into Russian as "souvlaki shop") is a street food stall, which is what replaces fast food for Greeks. Souvlaki is not considered food in Greek culture. It is something in between, because the process of preparing these dishes is as simple as can be, unlike real food, which, as Greeks believe, should be cooked long and thoroughly.

The word "souvlaki" refers to several types of dishes based on grilled meat. They are prepared right in front of you. You can order souvlaki to go, or you can sit at a table and eat it on the spot. A typical portion costs from 1.5 to 4 euros. The price depends on what you choose: pita gyros, kalamaki, or kebab.

You have probably encountered something similar in Turkey, but don't mention that to Greeks. They consider this food exclusively Greek and have no intention of sharing the laurels with anyone.

Pita gyros (Pita-Gyros) is very reminiscent of the familiar shawarma. Its name comes from the main ingredients: pieces of meat cut from a large vertical spit (gyros) are placed in a round pita. Having consumed such a cone stuffed with meat, french fries, onions, and yogurt, you might, out of habit, load your hungry stomach so much that dinner becomes questionable.

Kalamaki (kalamaki – "little stick") is small pieces of meat on a wooden skewer. It looks like shashlik, but it is simply grilled meat. An extremely simple dish, no marinade or sauce, except for lemon juice, which should be sprinkled on the kalamaki before eating to enhance the flavor. The main thing is that the meat is fresh, not frozen. Usually it is pork and chicken, sometimes lamb.

Kalamaki is served as an appetizer at all public events, holidays, and even in movie theaters, alongside popcorn. People munch on kalamaki right in the dark auditorium while watching a movie. By the way, souvlaki-kalamaki existed in ancient Greece, but whether it was allowed to eat it in amphitheaters, history is silent.

Finally, kebab is a dish common in all Eastern countries. These are oblong patties of minced lamb, skewered on a wooden stick or metal skewer. Kebab is served with salad, Arabic pita, and yogurt.

To give you an idea of the scale of Greeks' love for this treat, let me give an example. In Athens, in the city center, there is an establishment called Thanasis, which has specialized only in kebabs for over 40 years. It all started once with a simple street grill, and now this kebab shop occupies the first floors of three adjacent buildings. And you can't always find a free seat there.

Right across the street from Thanasis is a competitor that also serves kebab. However, the competitor's tables are usually empty. Except that tourists occasionally wander in by mistake. Surprisingly, it's a fact: outwardly very similar establishments can coexist side by side, the set of dishes and their prices are completely identical, but in one there is an impatient queue, while at the neighbor's there is not a soul.

The secret, of course, lies in the owners' attitude to business and the quality of the products used. Locals cannot be fooled: they easily identify those who save on quality ingredients and approach cooking carelessly. Therefore, in Greece, when thinking about where to eat, pay attention to which establishment has the most Greeks. And feel free to go there. Do not neglect the main rule of a tourist: repeat everything the locals do.

It should be noted that neither McDonald's (Greece is the Western country with the lowest number of them per capita) nor trendy burger joints are able to defeat souvlatzidiko and occupy the niche of street food. And not only because the satiety, speed of preparation, and relative cheapness make souvlaki beyond competition.

It is also due to the conservatism of Greek society, an unspoken tradition absorbed with mother's milk. No Greek remembers when they first tasted souvlaki in their life. Souvlaki has always been with them.