Today, the streets of Sicilian towns are flooded with tourists
A correspondent for Lenta.ru climbed Mount Etna, tasted local cuisine, and also immersed herself in the life of the mafia and saw the place where the famous "The Godfather" was filmed.
Godfathers
Little houses with roofs covered in orange tiles and orange trees. The lost Italian village of Savoca was perfect for filming one of the best movies in cinema history.
The narrow streets of the village wind along the edge of a steep mountain, from the top of which a wonderful view of the azure sea opens up. After overcoming a dozen dizzying turns on the serpentine road, we stop at the Vitelli bar. However, it's hard to call this just a cafe or tavern. It is more of a museum dedicated to the film "The Godfather," where you can eat well. The Italian ice cream – gelato – and dessert – cannoli – are incomparable there.
Once inside, you feel like one of the movie's characters: arched entrance, blinds made of crumpled beer caps, photographs, even worn-out chairs, just like in the film. Soundtracks play everywhere. Above the bar counter hangs a Sicilian sawed-off shotgun – lupara – the main weapon of the local mafia.
Some residents are not averse to boasting that they saw the filming of the movie or even participated as extras. However, there are not many locals themselves – only about a thousand. Admiring the picturesque views, we climb up the mountain and see the Church of Santa Lucia, where the main characters – Michael and Apollonia – got married. According to the film, they come out of the church happy, and the crowd showers them with candies.
Descending back to the bar, we see a small square where the newlyweds danced their wedding waltz. On this patch of ground, there are cafe tables, tourists taking photos, and a mirrored memorial sign depicting Francis Ford Coppola at work.
So what about the mafia?
The mafia has become almost the main brand of Italy, especially Sicily. There is practically no region in the country where its own clans do not exist. However, meeting a real mafioso resembling one of the characters from "The Godfather" is now almost impossible. Nevertheless, the mafia exists, both in the south and in the north of the Apennine Peninsula. Usually, mafia clans originate from the south, but prefer to do business in the north, where big money circulates and it is much easier to launder.
In some Sicilian cities, the mafia firmly holds the economy in its hands. Many hotels, restaurants, and shops are forced to pay the clans pizzo – a fee for protection and patronage. The clans themselves like to own large chain stores. The mafia is strongest in large cities such as Catania and Palermo. At the same time, it is practically absent in Ragusa and Syracuse. However, tourists should not be afraid; the mafia poses a danger more to Sicilians themselves than to ordinary tourists, who should be more wary of pickpockets than local mafiosi.
Cosmic volcano
The most important city in Sicily is Catania, the entire center of which is built from basalt. However, Catania itself is not so remarkable; what is more interesting is what is nearby. Along with the mafia and Sicilian sweets, the volcano Etna is considered the island's calling card. It is the tallest of all active volcanoes in Europe – over 3,000 meters. It is very convenient to get to Etna by car. First, you ascend to a height of 1,900 meters, where souvenir shops are located. The most common souvenir is made of lava stone. Then a funicular takes you to a height of 2,500 meters, and after that, jeeps take you even higher.
The cosmic views that open from above are breathtaking. Because the volcano is active, steam rises from the ground. However, do not be deceived. If it is very hot in Sicily in summer, when going to Etna, it is better to dress warmer. In some parts, the temperature reaches 17 or even 13 degrees, and an icy wind blows. It is also better to take sturdier shoes: volcanic sand is quite sharp. It is advisable that they not be white – sneakers can quickly get dirty from volcanic dust.
Near the volcano is the Agrigento Gorge, formed during an eruption of Etna. The lava flow encountered a cold mountain river and stopped. The water in the gorge is very cold, although this does not stop tourists who decide to swim.
In the footsteps of Archimedes
Another amazing place in Sicily is the town of Syracuse, known for being where Archimedes lived. The old part of the city – Ortigia – resembles ordinary Italian streets with rather shabby houses. Much more interesting is the museum – the Archimedes Park. Here you can see with your own eyes how the mechanisms created by the greatest inventor of antiquity work.
For example, the Archimedes screw for scooping water, countless levers for lifting loads, a crossbow, a prototype of a windmill, as well as various devices for waging war. At the entrance to the museum, visitors are given tablets with information about each exhibit. In addition, all devices created by Archimedes are allowed to be touched.
Unusual capital and pearl of the island
Despite the fact that Palermo is the capital of Sicily, the city is quite dirty, the city center is shabby, and the houses are dilapidated. The local streets preserve the memory of Ancient Greece and Rome, and the buildings amaze with architectural masterpieces. You just have time to take photos.
Many admire the famous street food of Palermo. The most popular street fast food among locals is a bun with offal. Sicilians love it, but it is an acquired taste. A split bun filled with boiled offal and drizzled with lime. Much better is another Sicilian national dish – arancini – deep-fried rice balls with filling.
The island's true gem is rightfully called the stunningly beautiful place of Taormina. For a long time it was a small, out-of-the-way Italian town until wealthy Europeans took notice of it in the mid-19th century. One enterprising local woman bought several fishermen's huts on the coast, built the first hotel for affluent guests on the site after demolishing them, and laid out a beautiful park nearby.
Thus Taormina became a tourist destination. Locals boast that in its time this town was adored by British nobility, who called it the second Monte Carlo. From the observation decks, stunning views open up of Mount Etna, quiet beaches at the foot of the town, and a small island nearby.
Incidentally, Taormina was dubbed the pearl of Sicily by Guy de Maupassant, and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe called it a paradise. Russian Emperor Nicholas II also visited, and a bust of the monarch was even erected in the town park to commemorate this event.
At the very top of the town, lovers of antiquity await the Greek Theatre, built back in the 3rd century BC. From it, the main street, Corso Umberto, descends, onto which picturesque squares are strung like pearls on a string. However, the tiny street of Stretto is considered especially remarkable. It is so narrow that tourists love to take photos there, spreading their arms wide and almost touching the opposite walls of the houses.
Sicilian Mosaic
Those who like to bask in the sun will enjoy the picturesque beaches of Marzamemi near the town of the same name. It takes its name from the Arabic word Marsa el Hamem (port of turtledoves). This area was once a stopping place for these birds during migration.
This resort town has many bars, hotels, and restaurants. But the most beautiful thing here is the beach – with soft golden sand and the clearest sea of blue hues. The gentle slope and crystal-clear water are loved by both travelers with children and scuba diving enthusiasts. There used to be a tuna processing plant here, so the town has many fish restaurants and other paraphernalia of this ancient maritime profession.
Putting together the Sicilian mosaic, I confess it turned out to be unusually colorful. It features the azure color of the sea, black – the color of volcanoes and lava, white – the color of superb beaches, green – its cacti, palms, and capers, and burgundy – the color of famous wines.