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WEEKEND IN THE CAPITAL OF GEORGIA (part 1)
Many have tried to destroy the structure, but it has stood firm. Only the earthquake of 1827 managed to overcome the mighty walls. After numerous restoration and reinforcement works, the ancient walls are now stormed only by crowds of tourists.
Previously, one had to climb up to the fortress on foot; now it is very convenient to take the new cable car, from whose cabin you can interestingly view the roofs of the old city.
Now you can ascend to the top of the mountain by funicular, which resumed operation only a year ago. From Mtatsminda, a wonderful view of all Tbilisi opens up, as the classic author said. In good weather, you can even see Kazbek!
And you can also have a great rest there – a huge amusement park with sculptures, a Ferris wheel, many cafes surrounded by ancient trees.
"Napoleon's Hat" and others
Decide for yourself whether you are interested in seeing the modern architectural works of Tbilisi. I can only say: you will go to the "Napoleon's Hat" anyway. It is the very same glass Bridge of Peace that has caused so many mixed reactions. Many do not like the pedestrian bridge, others call it a masterpiece. And everyone who comes to the Georgian capital walks on it. Not to get somewhere, but just to take a closer look.
By the way, from it you can see other city landmarks. And the bridge itself leads to Rike Park with singing fountains. There, in the park, lie some giant glass tubes. You would never guess that it is an exhibition hall and the new Music and Drama Theatre. A bit higher, the new presidential palace with an egg-shaped dome reminiscent of the Reichstag is visible. There are a couple more "glass buildings" – the Ministry of Internal Affairs building and the House of Justice, resembling a mushroom bed.
There are many diverse monuments, sculptures and statues in Tbilisi. There is even a monument to a dice made from an animal joint. I won't say that I am delighted with Georgian modernism, which Mikheil Saakashvili was so keen on, but the former president tried to bring Georgia culturally and mentally closer to Europe and at least achieved that the new buildings became symbols of his era.
Where to eat
Georgians immediately advised looking for a restaurant where wine is served not in bottles but in pitchers. Unfortunately, traditional ceramic pitchers are no longer in fashion, but wine in glass pitchers is no worse. The price difference: a bottle of wine in a restaurant costs about 20 lari, a 1.5-liter pitcher about 10, depending on the wine. Georgians value the quality of "homemade" wine, as they call it, more than bottled.
If suddenly, while walking among the souvenir shops on Leselidze Street, you feel a sharp pang of hunger, drop into the restaurant "Mukhambazi". You will find it in an almost inconspicuous basement. But you won't be disappointed. It is one of those restaurants where there are very few visitors during the day, almost no tourists, and wine is served in pitchers. And they see nothing unusual in giving a full glass of homemade wine for a taste. They won't charge for the tasting.
They have excellent kharcho soup (very helpful if you overindulged in wine and chacha the night before), traditional khinkali, fresh vegetable salads, and meat dishes. Sometimes, completely unexpectedly, they will dance the lezginka for you, so much so that the khinkali in your stomach will start dancing.
On the way to Shardeni Square (Abanotubani district), there are plenty of small cafes and eateries to have a tasty and inexpensive snack. And near the baths themselves, there is an excellent cheburek place, a pretty authentic establishment with fresh chebureks, which are interesting to try, washing them down with tarragon soda. There are no such establishments left in Kyiv or Lviv.
Fresh khachapuri or lavash, baked in tiny bakeries on every corner, also make a good snack. You will find them by the smell. They will hand you the lavash straight from the oven; the rest of the batch of finished bread will be picked up by some employee from a hotel or restaurant to take it immediately to their guests. That is why bread in restaurants is always fresh, often hot.
To sit in the evening with a glass of wine in the fresh air among other tourists, head to the small streets neighboring Leselidze. There, among old and modern houses, there are places completely filled with tables, so you just have to choose where you like best. Since there are always many tourists here, prices are somewhat higher than usual.
As for expensive restaurants, locals recommend visiting Baratashvili Avenue. There, near Didube station (the exit from the city towards Mtskheta), there is a whole chain of luxurious restaurants with national music, dancing and singing.
Georgian sweets and spicy things
The main sweetness of Georgia, also the basic "dry ration" of horsemen on long campaigns, is churchkhela, resembling a hanging sausage, with walnuts or hazelnuts inside. The shell is grape syrup with flour, thickened. A very filling item, convenient for a snack on the road.
Do not hesitate to go to the metro station "Vokzalnaya", near the station (you need to walk towards the Dynamo stadium) there is a small food market where there is always fresh and inexpensive churchkhela and hazelnuts; this will definitely come in handy in the mountains.
Closer to the stadium, on Tsereteli Avenue, there is a whole string of shops with tourist equipment and clothing; it would also be useful to stop by there before a trip to the mountains.
And walking to the metro station "Tsereteli", near McDonald's, you will find a wonderful wine shop. There you can sample a dozen homemade wines and choose the one you like best.
You can find something spicier closer to the center. Cross the bridge with the strange name Sukhoi (Dry). Behind it, for a couple of blocks, stretches a flea market. At this market, you can buy antlers, hooves, imperial samovars, and daggers, which Georgians claim can be safely transported across the border.
Tatyana RYBAK,
«Focus»