How to get there
Most tourists start their route precisely in Tbilisi. The airport is only 15 km away, and the bus ride to the city costs, like within the city, 50 tetri (or, as they say here, kopecks). The bus departs from a stop right outside the airport exit and takes you to the center of Tbilisi. There is one small inconvenience: you can only pay for the ride in an automatic machine that accepts only local coins. So you will have to exchange an initial amount into local currency right at the airport; the exchange rate there is not much different from the average. And it's better to buy something, getting coins as change. Also, in the main hall of the airport, there is an information center for tourists where you can get maps of regions and cities, and guidebooks completely free of charge.
Even if you couldn't find coins, don't worry – on the bus you will most likely meet Georgians who will gladly share their small change. And on the way to the city, you might even find mutual acquaintances. If you decide to take a taxi, it's still better to have local currency; the trip will cost 25-30 lari.
Where to stay
Of course, you've taken care of accommodation in advance. If not, follow this advice. There are as many hotels in Tbilisi as in Kyiv. And a couple of years ago, there were so many chain hotels of world brands that Kyiv never dreamed of. But the prices are corresponding. You can, of course, choose one of the two luxurious "Sheratons" as accommodation, but a sensible traveler is unlikely to splurge like that.
Georgian hostels in the capital are modern, democratic, but also expensive. There are cheaper ones at European prices (about $15 per night), but their atmosphere is more suitable for partying youth. For us, the most optimal option turned out to be renting an apartment or guesthouse in the old city center. In principle, their conditions and prices differ little.
On our first visit, we rented a one-bedroom apartment, one might say, in the diplomatic district, right next to the Italian embassy. Many rental apartments are available near the central Shota Rustaveli Avenue, where the parliament is located, as well as the government building and foreign embassies.
A completely ordinary apartment in an old building, with a TV, shower, full kitchen, and Wi-Fi. The landlord was a retiree who didn't even know how to turn on the Wi-Fi. But wireless internet here is as essential as hot water. There was one terrible inconvenience: the apartment was heavily smoked.
The next time we were luckier; it was a guesthouse in the same district, called Mtatsminda. After a long search, we finally found an inconspicuous old house with massive doors, hidden among five-story buildings.
Inside, the house turned out to be a 19th-century estate with modern renovations and spacious rooms. One of them was intended for us, but that one room contained a comfortable mini-kitchen and a bathroom. And from the balcony, one could watch the peaceful life in the courtyards of the old city. The room also had internet and a huge TV. The very center (read: the local Khreshchatyk) was just a five-minute walk away. All this pleasure cost $35 per day.
Where to go
This was the first question of our stay in Tbilisi, but… on the second day. To start, you can simply take a walk around the city. Feel the atmosphere, breathe the air, admire the carved balconies. In Tbilisi, the spirit of the old city lingers, clings to modern buildings, mixes with the smell of coffee and fresh lavash.
Tbilisi is a completely European capital with old and new buildings. There is a lot of illumination. Bridges, sculptures, balconies, the presidential palace are lit up. The churches, of which there are many, at night seem like fireflies hanging on the dark-hidden mountains, literally one above the other.
Take a walk to Leselidze Street in the Sololaki district, where, as locals say, everyone goes, and look into the alleys around it. Unexpectedly, you will find yourself on the terrace of a cozy restaurant with a glass of wine in hand, listening to jazz from an ancient gramophone.
Sololaki is the most authentic central district. Quite compact, but one evening is hardly enough for it. You need to take a walk there a couple of times. Walk through the alleys, be sure to look into all the local courtyards, get to know the locals.
Go to… the baths
"I have never in my life seen anything more luxurious than the Tiflis baths." That's Pushkin. About those same baths built on underground hot sulfur springs, to which Tbilisi owes its name ("tbili" means warm).
The baths appeared in the 16th–19th centuries and formed an entire city quarter, Abanotubani. All the steam rooms are below ground level. They are covered with round arches and illuminated by a glass lantern above the dome of the bath hall. The Irakli Bath is considered the oldest, mentioned since the 16th century, though the exact date of construction is not established.
Once upon a time, the bathing time in the baths was not limited – you could sit until morning. They were a kind of club where citizens relaxed, held business meetings, and even gave dinners. And city matchmakers often arranged viewings in the baths on special days.
Alexander Sergeevich himself visited one of the oldest and most beautiful of them, the Orbeliani Bath. Its facade appeared during the influence of Persian fashion, which is why it resembles an Uzbek madrasah. There, Pushkin's namesakes – Griboyedov and Dumas – also liked to relax.
You can visit the room where Pushkin supposedly steamed today, but local experts are confused – whether it's the seventh or the eighth. The cabins themselves look rather dreary, as if they haven't been renovated since the literary classic stayed here.
Other baths look more decent; there is even a VIP establishment. You can steam in private cabins or in common halls. The cost of visiting ranges from 3 lari in the common steam room to 20-50 lari in a cabin. Massage costs 10-15 lari. Each bath has its own prices and comfort level. To make it easier to choose, you can walk around and easily inspect the steam rooms of each.
Read the continuation of the article:
Weekend in the Capital of Georgia (part 2)
Tatyana RYBAK,
«Focus»