There are currently 40,000 establishments in Germany that sell shawarma.
It can be said with confidence that thin slices of meat cooked on a vertical grill and wrapped in pita or lavash with salad are outpacing the famous sausage duo in the fast-food market. And this is a sure sign of the growing cultural and economic influence of Turkish immigrants on German society, writes BBC.
It is believed that this dish was invented in Berlin 50 years ago by two guest workers, Kadir Nurman and Mehmet Aygün, who came after the war to rebuild West Germany's economy along with other immigrants from Southern and Eastern Europe. Döner kebab quickly became popular – not only among labor migrants (of whom there are now 200,000 in Germany). And although Aygün claims he invented the dish a year before Nurman, in 1971, and sold it in his shop called "Hasir" – the Association of Turkish Shawarma Producers in Europe officially recognized Nurman as the pioneer.
As Ülber recounts, in 1972 Nurman was the first in Germany to sell döner kebab from his small kiosk opposite the Zoologischer Garten railway station in West Berlin. He transformed the traditional dish of grilled meat with rice, salad, and flatbread into a sandwich that busy German workers could eat on the go – with each of the two former guest workers claiming that the idea of placing the meat inside the flatbread was his own.
But whoever was first, these two laid the foundation for a business with a turnover of 4 billion euros in Germany. Every day, 400 tons of meat are used to prepare shawarma: it seems this beloved street food is becoming a staple in the German diet.
According to the Association, there are currently 40,000 establishments in Germany that sell shawarma, and according to the official Berlin tourism portal Visit Berlin, the capital city ranks first in the number of such outlets: there are 4,000 of them – even more than in Turkey's most populous city, Istanbul. Other major German cities are not far behind: Munich, Frankfurt, Hamburg, and Stuttgart.
This dish is so popular that in 2011, a group of clever German students invented a recipe to restore fresh breath after such a snack: their drink "Papa Turk," which contains ginger, parsley, mint, and lemon, according to its creators, neutralizes the garlic smell of shawarma.
But why has shawarma gained so many fans? "Because it's very tasty," Ülber simply replies. "It contains all the healthy ingredients: a source of protein and salad."
But it's not just about the rich flavor, large portions, and affordable prices – ranging from 4.50 to 14 euros on average. Apparently, one of the main advantages of this dish turned out to be its ability to adapt to any taste. Nurman used only beef for its preparation, but over time, chefs began to use other types of meat – chicken, lamb, and turkey – and also diversified the flatbreads and fillings. Now each establishment can add its own unique twist to the dish.
"Customers also enjoy variations on shawarma such as İskender kebab (thinly sliced lamb with tomato sauce, clarified sheep's milk butter, and yogurt, wrapped in pita), Adana kebab (minced meat cooked on a wide iron skewer), and köfte (meat patties with parsley and mint)," says Evren Demirkan, co-owner of the Stuttgart restaurant World of Kebap. But Demirkan's customers most prefer the classic döner kebab with beef. He sells 500 of these per workweek, and twice as many on weekends.
To find out firsthand what this marvel is all about, I went to Germany – and quickly realized how wrong I was to think of shawarma as food exclusively for hungover night revelers. Walking on a Friday afternoon through Frankfurt's bustling financial center, I was surprised to see that shawarma is served in a wide variety of places – from upscale restaurants to small cafes beautifully decorated in Turkish style.
Lunchtime came, and everyone around – locals, businessmen, and tourists – headed to the nearest stalls, forming long queues for their favorite dish. Some ordered mixed grilled meats or köfte, but I decided to get straight down to business: I went into Nazar Kebap Haus at Schäfergasse 38 and ordered a large döner kebab with beef. Taking the pita, I took a bite. The shawarma was amazingly fresh and tasty: juicy meat, chili sauce, yogurt-garlic dressing, and crunchy salad fully justified the time spent in line.
It seemed to me that the Turks had managed to successfully preserve the traditions of this dish while simultaneously adapting it to the ever-changing, highly competitive food service market. As the largest non-indigenous ethnic group in Germany (Berlin has the largest Turkish diaspora), Turks have made shawarma an important tool that not only satisfies local needs and serves the economy but also builds a bridge between two cultures. For many immigrants from Turkey, döner kebab has become a symbol of new opportunities. And even now, five decades later, with several generations of shawarma sellers having come and gone, the pioneers of this business are not forgotten.
"Of course, we are grateful to Kadir and Mehmet. They not only invented döner kebab but also laid the foundation for an entire industry and helped many people earn a living," says Demirkan. "Their invention has benefited many sectors at once."