The calling card of Maghreb cuisine in general, and Tunisian cuisine in particular, is couscous. It is a most thankless task to describe what couscous is to a Russian person who has never eaten it. I remember how my wife, who was the first to introduce me to Tunisia, after an emotional account of the absolutely amazing taste sensations she had when tasting this dish, tried to explain what it actually was. It went something like this: “Crushed wheat grains mixed with meat and vegetables, steamed and served with a sauce.” After that, I remembered the army canteen, a fat-faced warrant officer, and a longing for my mother’s pies. In short, I had no burning desire to try couscous.
Now, many years later, I am ready to repeat word for word - grains with meat, vegetables, and steam, and it is incredibly delicious. Moreover, I cannot understand why. The Tunisians themselves smile and say with a sly look that the secret lies in the sauce; I am inclined to think it is all about local culinary magic. Couscous is prepared in a special utensil - something like a steam pot of special construction. There are several varieties of couscous: classic - with lamb, refined - with fish, quick but tasty - with chicken, and vegetarian - with vegetables. At any feast, the couscous dish is the decoration of the table, served ceremoniously and looking wonderful. The sauce, as a rule, is served separately and is indeed an extremely important component of this dish. Another essential ingredient in making couscous is harissa - a unique seasoning based on hot pepper and spices, which is added to almost all dishes of Tunisian cuisine.
Vegetables are a mandatory participant in a Tunisian meal. They are served fresh, boiled, steamed - in general, in any form. However, a particular source of pride for Tunisians is mechouia salad - finely chopped peppers, tomatoes, herbs, garlic, onions, and other unidentified representatives of local flora, slow-cooked over coals and dressed with harissa. Depending on the preferences of eaters, mechouia can be of varying strength, but it is traditionally served in a “spicy” version. By the way, many dishes of traditional Tunisian cuisine are cooked over an open fire - probably due to their Berber origin. Lamb on the bone, lamb merguez sausages, rouget and dorade fish cooked over the fire are especially good, especially when tried in small roadside cafés, where food in the form of semi-finished products is displayed in special showcases. Having chosen a piece you like, you can watch it being cooked, which is wonderful for digestion. By the way, in Tunisia, there is a special attitude towards lamb, and even more so towards its preparation. Even if you have been convinced all your life that lamb is not for you, then after tasting gargoulette - the freshest meat baked in a clay jug with a thick broth and herbs - you will change your mind.
Breakfast is the start of the day. Therefore, there is nothing better than starting the day with ojja. This improved version of the French omelet consists of eggs cooked in olive oil with tomatoes, onions, peppers, garlic, and the ubiquitous harissa.
Another reworked legacy of the colonizers is the local version of coffee - capusan. This distant relative of cappuccino can impress even a connoisseur.
But the masterpiece among national drinks of all times and peoples, I consider Tunisian tea. It is a special type of green tea that is not brewed but boiled in a special way, changing the water several times and starting the process anew. After cooking, a mint leaf and pine nuts or almonds are added to the tea. It is a magnificent tonic, not to mention its taste qualities.
A separate topic is Tunisian wines. The French colonizers duly appreciated the fertility of the local land and the generosity of the African sun and - true to their national preferences - founded several winemaking centers in a Muslim country. After gaining independence, the Tunisians did not get rid of the legacy of the “exploiters.” Moreover, they bred new grape varieties and, as a result, new wine brands. Today, the most famous are the delightful Old Magon and Tunisian White Muscat. In general, Tunisian wines have become a kind of finishing touch in the formation of national cuisine, a symbol of the democratic and cosmopolitan nature of culinary art.