The waters of Lake Ohrid
However, as Lenta.ru notes, it is in the Macedonian hinterland that all the most interesting things are hidden – for example, the resort town of Ohrid on the shores of Lake Ohrid. Our compatriots rarely go there, but among residents of Balkan countries this place is extremely popular. Prices there are significantly lower than at the seaside, and the atmosphere is just as good.
Lake or sea
A crowded bus from Skopje to Ohrid reaches Lake Ohrid in about three hours. Everyone travels in high spirits, anticipating fun and relaxation. Usually such an atmosphere prevails in Balkan buses heading to the sea during the season. Upon arriving in Ohrid, you suddenly realize that this place differs little from a real seaside resort. Picturesque streets of the old town, a promenade with restaurants and shops, endless expanse of water. And until you dive in and taste the water, you don't fully realize that it's not the sea.
The heat on the shore of the mountain lake, formed about five million years ago, is not felt as strongly as on sea beaches. There are cozy and inexpensive hotels and apartments. And delicious Balkan food will be a pleasant bonus for those who decide to give up the popular Mediterranean beaches for at least one season and spend their vacation in the Macedonian province. But tourists come here not only for the lake and food.
Year-round Orthodoxy
Ohrid is a city of 365 churches, as the Macedonians call it. There is a legend that once a church was built here for every day of the year. Historians confirm that the city adopted Christianity very early, and local bishops participated in the first ecumenical councils. True, many churches were later destroyed, and Turkish mosques appeared in their place.
However, there is definitely no shortage of Orthodox churches in Ohrid. During a walk around the city, ancient churches – mostly built in classic Byzantine style – are encountered every 300-500 meters. It is no coincidence that the city and the lake were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979-1980.
Ohrid from the water
The big picture is seen from a distance: before a walking tour of the city, it is worth viewing it from afar – from the water. Along the Ohrid embankment, many pleasure boats are moored, whose owners for a small fee will take anyone for a ride on the lake and tell about the history and daily life of Ohrid: how churches were built, how they were destroyed, how mosques took their place, how to distinguish an Ottoman mosque from an Albanian one.
Here a whole tangle of Balkan contradictions is revealed: Macedonia shares the waters of Lake Ohrid with Albania, and the residents of Ohrid are convinced that the Albanians are destroying the lake's fauna and catching all the fish from it. And local residents somehow treat Turkish mosques with more respect than Albanian ones. But one should not take these complaints too seriously: this is the internal life of the Balkans, not fully understandable to us.
Traces of antiquity
After a boat ride, you can get to know the city up close. The history of Ohrid began long before the Christian era: the city belonged first to the ancient Greeks, then to the Romans, and later to the Byzantines. Even under the Greeks, an amphitheater was built here for theatrical performances. Under the Romans, it turned into an arena for gladiator fights. Considerably dilapidated over two millennia, it has survived to this day. It is definitely worth a visit – Kliment Ohridski Street leads to it from the embankment.
Byzantine grandeur of Ohrid
The intricate patterns of the old cobblestone lead to the Church of Saint Sophia – the main Orthodox symbol of Ohrid. According to some data, it was built as early as the 9th century, and frescoes from the 11th century have been preserved on its walls. The temple was built in the image and likeness of Hagia Sophia in Constantinople. Like its famous namesake, Ohrid's Saint Sophia suffered the same fate – during the Ottoman yoke it was turned into a mosque. However, it was later returned to the Orthodox.
Another ancient Ohrid shrine is the Church of the Most Holy Theotokos Peribleptos, built in the 13th century. While Saint Sophia was Muslim, the Church of the Theotokos Peribleptos replaced it as the cathedral of Ohrid.
You can admire the city and the lake from the Plaoshnik hill, where the Church of Saint Panteleimon stands. Once there was a monastery here, according to researchers, founded in the 9th century by Saint Clement of Ohrid, a disciple of Cyril and Methodius. The church houses the relics of Saint Clement. The temple was also converted into a mosque for some time, and during that period the remains of Clement of Ohrid were moved to the small Church of Saint Clement, built in the 14th century. After reconstruction in the early 2000s, fragments of the floor in the Church of Panteleimon were made transparent: through them you can see the remains of a basilica that stood on this site as early as the 5th century. Next to the church is an archaeological zone where you can see ancient mosaics remaining from the monastery buildings.
Wherever you find yourself in Ohrid, from almost everywhere you can see Samuel's Fortress, which has proudly stood over the city for a thousand years. It is considered a museum, so entry is paid, but it is definitely worth climbing up – if only for the mesmerizing views of the lake.
On museum paths
Wandering through the central streets of old Ohrid, you cannot miss a small but completely unique museum – the paper workshop. Here they tell and show how paper is made and how the Gutenberg printing press works. According to the owner of the workshop, only two such presses remain in the world! On this press you can make a commemorative postcard or some other Ohrid paper souvenir.
In Ohrid, there is also the National Museum, whose exhibition consists mainly of archaeological finds discovered within the city. They date from the pre-Christian era and the Middle Ages, so lovers of antiquity will surely enjoy the museum.
Also worth attention is the Ohrid Icon Gallery, located next to the Church of the Holy Mother of God Peribleptos. The exhibition is not very large, but gives an idea of Macedonian Orthodox iconography.
Fun and food
For the most daring, flights over the lake on a paraglider are organized. You can also go diving to get to know the lake from the inside (and at the same time check whether the Albanians have caught all the fish or if it is still just local prejudice).
You definitely won't leave Ohrid hungry. The old town is literally overflowing with all sorts of eateries, cafes and restaurants. As everywhere, there are the most ordinary pizzerias. You can easily find some Greek tavern with gyros, souvlaki and moussaka – after all, this is the Balkans. You can also easily dine on dishes from the former Yugoslavia.
There are also many fish restaurants – which testifies to the fact that there is still fish in the lake, and the Albanians are not such bandits. And, of course, excellent Balkan fast food is available everywhere with pljeskavica, ćevapi and chicken fillet in buns, which easily put all Western fast food restaurants to shame.