The humble herring has a special status in Germany
The first "Pickled Herring Weeks" (Glückstädter Matjeswochen) took place in the northern German "city of happiness" Glückstadt. According to Deutsche Welle, on the second Thursday of June, the opening of the annual season of the popular fish delicacy is celebrated here. It is about herring of a special (Dutch) salting called "matjes" (from the Dutch "meisje", meaning "young girl").
Long live herring!
Once upon a time, fast sailing fishing luggers set out to sea and returned weeks later with a rich catch – barrels of salted herring. Right on the shore, in front of an impatient audience, a tasting was held – the first herring went to the city's mayor. But at the end of the 19th century, sailing ships and customs gave way to modern fishing vessels and new rules for fish processing.
The revival of this glorious tradition in Glückstadt was decided in 1968. Since then, not only locals but also residents from all over the country come to the annual spectacle, which moved from the port to the city square. A few years ago, Udo Julich, a native of Cologne, also attended this festival. "The season opening celebration begins on Thursday with a ceremonial tasting of the new season's herring from a freshly opened barrel of fish," says Udo Julich.
During the folk festival (the celebration lasts a full four days), you can listen to music, compete in agility, resourcefulness, and courage (for example, managing to stay on a raft), but the main thing is to taste the local pickled specialties, lists the amateur fisherman from Cologne. After all, "herring from Glückstadt" has become a European brand, which has been granted the right of "protected designation of origin" (Schutzsiegel g.g.A.).
Modern technology (freezing the catch directly on board the vessel) allows herring to be salted (only young herring from the spring-summer catch, about five years old, is suitable) all year round. Therefore, herring from Glückstadt can now be enjoyed not only in summer, as in the old days, but at any time of the year. Fortunately, it is still prepared here – traditionally by hand, and salted without accelerating the fermentation process (at least a week in a barrel!). This is what distinguishes the original from the "fake", i.e., herring prepared only "according to the recipe" (in German – "Hering nach Matjes Art"): quickly, cheaply, efficiently, but… not as tasty.
"To understand this, you just need to try the famous fish: simply, without anything – on a bun and into your mouth!" smacks Udo Julich. That is exactly how experts recommend eating this herring. They urge not to soak the fish in milk (it is lightly salted!), not to "drown" the delicate herring in sauce, not to "overwhelm" it with an abundance of onions, and, most importantly, not to let this perishable product sit in the refrigerator.
Burbot, trout, carp...
Not only herring is held in high esteem by Germans. It all depends on the region and/or individual preferences. Following the spring catch of herring and flounder come marine and freshwater "favorites" – salmon, pike, pikeperch, whitefish, eel, tench, perch, catfish. Among them is rainbow trout – the avid fisherman from Cologne loves it most in fried or smoked form of his own making, admits Udo Julich.
The season for carp, which are widely bred in ponds throughout Germany, traditionally begins in September. However, special attention is given to them in Brandenburg, Bavaria, and Saxony, where since 2002 a carp expert – a true fish queen (Fischkönigin) – is elected annually. And fishermen from Spreewald usually go for burbot in winter. Residents of the "German Venice" call burbot nothing less than "freshwater cod".
Fishing in Germany is taken more than seriously, because without a special permit, approaching the fish is prohibited. Experienced fishermen honor ancient traditions, introducing them to anyone interested. The oldest association of professional fishermen in Germany, who had the right to fish, was founded in 987 in the area of the Sieg River (a right tributary of the Rhine). This right, still in effect today, fishing clans pass down to their descendants by inheritance.
Today, the "Bergheim Fishermen's Brotherhood", consisting of 400 people, runs the Fishing Museum and takes care of preserving fishing traditions. You can get to know them more closely, and also learn to weave baskets, nets, properly cast a seine, smoke fish, and much more, at one of the annual July "Fishermen's Festivals" (Fischerfest). In 2016, the "Fishermen's Brotherhood", as guardians of the traditions of river fishing passed down from generation to generation, was included by UNESCO in the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Fisherman's Day and other records
The annual folk amusement – Fisherman's Day (Fischertag) in Bavarian Memmingen – is held in August. One and a half thousand men – young and old – participate in the collective catching of trout from the city canal. The one who catches the biggest fish awaits a high reward – the title of "King of Fishing".
Not only the biggest catch is valued by fishermen. German fish lovers can also boast of culinary records created from the catch. For example, preparing "jellied fish" in XXL format weighing 182.4 kg took about 90 kg of herring, salmon, and pikeperch, and for a record-sized fish solyanka (the pot contained 268 liters of hearty soup!), a whole 100 kg of Atlantic cod was needed. The author of these culinary masterpieces, cooked in Heringsdorf (on the Baltic island of Usedom), was German chef Andre Domke.
The giant-sized dishes were prepared by the first fish sommelier of the federal state of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern (in 2018 and 2019) not only for the joy of his restaurant guests. Both dishes popular in Germany became world records, recorded by the official authority – the Record Institute for Germany (Rekord-Institut für Deutschland, RID). Part of the proceeds Andre Domke donated to a charitable foundation, and the leftovers of the solyanka were canned.
Not indifferent to fish soup is also amateur fisherman Udo Jülich. For him, fishing is both relaxation, healthy food, and respect for nature. “After all, I only eat fish that I catch myself – in a clean pond or freshly caught on the coast of the North Sea,” he admits. And to ensure fishermen have luck, before going out to sea (or heading to the shore of the nearest body of water), they still greet each other with the cherished “Petri Heil!” (literally: “Glory to the Apostle Peter!”), meaning “Good catch!” But the main thing is to not forget to thank the patron saint of fishermen with a heartfelt “Petri Dank!” (“Thank you, Peter!”) for a bountiful catch.