So vote with your heart: go where your soul calls. If I were you, for the first time I would look at budget options in the "pre-Alpine" countries: Slovenia, Czech Republic, Poland, Serbia, Bulgaria, Andorra.
Everything is cheaper here, the resorts are more affordable than the Alpine ones, although they are almost as good, and you will still have time to spend your money when you learn to 'edge' on the icy slopes of the most difficult black runs. I, for example, learned to ski in Slovenian Bohinj, and I don't regret it at all. The only argument against such a choice is called Austria.
Austria
In winter, it is the most 'Russian' of all Alpine countries. During the season, which lasts in some skiing areas until late spring, hundreds of thousands of our compatriots come here. They can be understood: Austria has the best ski equipment, the most modern lifts, impeccably groomed slopes.
And the most fun skiing! It would seem, how can Austrians compete with the temperamental Italians or, say, the Spanish? But no: Austrian resorts are the most fun. In the cafés on the slopes, music is always blaring, often live, they serve a magical drink – 'Jägermeister', and when the lifts close, the locals, without taking off their heavy ski boots, gather in bars and, hugging each other, bellow the famous 'We are the champions!' They have the right: many legends of skiing have Austrian names. And most importantly, this is the best school for learning ski technique.
Among the local resorts, I personally liked Ischgl. Despite its popularity, I easily found wonderful red runs there where I skied almost alone. I would surely have liked Sölden too, if... On the very first day, I descended about 200 meters below the highest point and decided to admire the surroundings. From a state close to nirvana, I was brought out by a shout: '...! (a colloquial expression punishable by a large fine), it's my first day on the mountain!' – and a shapeless blob of a woman with skis and poles sticking out in all directions managed not just to sweep my hundred kilos, not counting equipment, off the slope. The blow from the forged edge of that blob's ski hit me on the leg above the boot, and I spent the remaining five days of my vacation with crutches in my arms.
The St. Anton am Arlberg – Lech area left pleasant memories. St. Anton is considered one of the most sporty skiing regions, while the nearby very beautiful town of Lech, reminiscent of Karlovy Vary, on the contrary, is an ideal place for beginners.
I know people who go year after year exclusively to Mayrhofen. But that's not my place at all: it's a matter of taste.
Zell am See – Kaprun is also a very popular skiing area – there is a high-altitude glacier, and snow is present even when it's nowhere else.
But queues for the lift, especially in the morning, are almost always guaranteed as well. I've also heard good reviews about Bad Gastein. This resort is notable for offering a combination of skiing and bathing in hot mineral springs.
France
Among skiing destinations, there are some you can skip altogether. There are some you can visit once. In France, these are, for example, Alpe d'Huez and Les Deux Alpes. And there are places that are must-visits once you've taken up skiing or snowboarding. So: all the must-visit skiing destinations are located precisely in France.
First, Chamonix – the ski capital of the world. Unlike all others, Chamonix is not a village you can walk through in 10 minutes lengthwise and crosswise, but a real city – lively, commercial, party-oriented, where the noise of bars and discos does not subside until morning. And several excellent skiing areas, including illuminated night slopes. Communication between hotels and slopes is impeccable, and the only thing to worry about is that the hotel or apartment is near a bus stop. 10-15 minutes and you're on the slope. Moreover, Chamonix is located very close to the highest peak of the Alps – Mont Blanc, and if you don't have the courage to descend from this mountain on fresh snow, then at least taking an excursion up here on a specially built lift is a must.
The cozy village of Val d'Isère does not amaze with its size, but once you go up to the slopes on the main lift, your breath is taken away by the colossal mountain crater crisscrossed with black threads of lifts. You can't do without a map here! I bet you can barely ski the entire area in a week. Val d'Isère is one of those places you want to return to.
The Three Valleys – of course! It is one of the largest and most beautiful skiing areas in the world: comfortable slopes are laid along slopes covered with luxurious forests. But take note: if you don't yet have your own oil well or bank, don't even think about Courchevel. It's best to stay in Méribel: it is located right in the middle of the Three Valleys, and that is very convenient. All hotels here are situated so that after skiing you don't trudge in bulky boots with heavy skis on your shoulders, but elegantly glide right to the hotel doors. And you can always go to the notorious Courchevel – to gawk at celebrities and other show business stars. And have lunch... for your entire monthly salary.
Avoriaz is wonderful! Magnificent slopes that you won't manage to figure out from the first day either. A special charm to the village is given by horses: you can only move around Avoriaz by sleigh, if you are too lazy to walk on foot. All cars, except for special passenger tractors that deliver visitors from the parking lot to the hotel and back, are banned.
Ski France is my favorite. Its only drawback is the French themselves, who live and work in ski towns. These people are not at all like the kind, friendly, polite French from other French provinces. For some reason, they close all the shops just when you come down from the mountain, and if you do manage to get in, the shopkeeper's face shows a forced smile, behind which you can clearly read disappointment: 'Oh dear, another one made it in before closing!'
In any case, whichever French resort you choose, don't even think of going home without trying Raclette – a typical mountain dish that is a 'cousin' to the well-known fondue.
Italy
What makes Italy remarkable? First of all, the opportunity to combine a ski holiday with a short trip – to Venice, Turin, Verona, or shopping in Milan – the capital of Italian fashion. The Alps here have wonderful wide slopes, high mountains with guaranteed snow, and a mild climate: skiing at +5 degrees Celsius is much more pleasant than at sub-zero temperatures.
The only thing to keep in mind: you may face some disappointment if, when coming here, you expect to meet a picture-postcard Italy. The alpine regions of this country, in terms of traditions including gastronomic, and the architecture of mountain villages, are not purely Italian but a joint Franco-Austrian-Swiss-Italian product, which gives local life a special flavor.
As it happened, I personally first got on skis in Madonna di Campiglio, which is probably the most party-oriented Italian resort. For the first years of skiing, for a trip with children, it's very nice, but advanced skiers might find it a bit boring.
Among Italian ski resorts, my favorite is the Cella Ronda, a circular route over 100 kilometers long laid out on alpine slopes. I was tempted to run it alone in one day, but gave up that idea, afraid of not making it before the lifts close. It's easy to get lost there: trail markings are not the strongest point of pasta lovers. They say that to run the whole Ronda, it's best to hire a guide-instructor, get up early, and... Anyway, I'll definitely return there someday: I don't like leaving peaks unconquered.
The Milky Way – Via Lattea, the area of Sestriere, Pragelato, Sauze d'Oulx is also good. Here even the black runs are so wide that descending them is easy for a beginner skier or snowboarder. Despite my dislike of going down the same run twice, in eight days of skiing it was never boring, and I didn't even get to the French Montgenèvre, which is connected by lifts to this area. However, if I were to go there again, I would not choose the apartment complex 'Olympic Village' (Villagio Olimpico) in Sestriere as my accommodation, but some other hotel. The Olympic Village is convenient, located right by the lift, it even has its own supermarket, but it was built, as they say, 'with a cold nose' and left no pleasant memories.
Switzerland
To be honest, my ski relationship with this country didn't work out. I've only been to Verbier, and I hit a low-snow year and remembered nothing except astronomical prices and excessive snobbery. But choosing a ski resort is a subtle matter. You will have to find your own favorite skiing area; it's a long and very pleasant journey that will take several years, and your assessments don't necessarily have to coincide with mine.
Read the continuation of the topic:
Ski Guide for Dummies
Mikhail KOZHUKHOV,
traveler.