We decided to discuss this 'but' in more detail, especially since the promised cold weather is upon us. And also, by the way, this winter season is a uniquely rare case when you can save a good amount on buying a fashionable, beautiful, and warm fur coat.
From the slain tiger to the plucked mink
To thoroughly recount the history of fur fashion, even an essay would not suffice: fur has played a truly significant role in the development of humanity. And it has always accurately reflected the level of societal development. Thus, Stone Age people believed that the physical strength of the animal would transfer to the wearer of its skin. In Ancient Egypt, they did not see mysticism in furs, but they still knew their value: only members of the ruling class could afford skins. In medieval Europe, the 'fur hierarchy' was formally codified just in case, clearly stating which fur was allowed for which class, so that, for example, merchants would not think of imitating the aristocracy.
The colonization of vast territories by Europeans in the 17th and 18th centuries helped establish a full-fledged fur trade. Demand for furs—whether luxurious or democratic—continued to grow, and new trade routes were very opportune. Fur became a currency for international trade settlements. In Rus', for example, pelts of Siberian fur-bearing animals were offered to Eastern merchant colleagues in exchange for delicacies, beautiful fabrics, and other scarce goods. In addition, coins with 'fur' names were in circulation—the first Russian metallic means of payment were simply called 'belas' and 'kunas' (from the words 'belka' meaning squirrel, 'kunitsa' meaning marten). Fur coats in Rus' were worn exclusively with the fur inside—not out of modesty, but for warmth. The outer side was covered with expensive fabrics with embroidery and inlay.
Later, in the 19th century, fur farms opened in all countries participating in the Industrial Revolution, so international trade in skins lost its former significance. Furs were processed to be lighter and more elegant.
In the hands of designers
In the 20th century, fur, already more widespread and accessible, attracted the interest of fashion designers. And it became mainly the prerogative of women, who have always shown much more interest in fashion and constant changes in trends than men. The fashion for textures, colors, and shapes of fur coats changed quickly. Already in the 1920s, incredibly choosy ladies desired exotic fur coats made from monkey, leopard, tiger fur, 'to be unlike everyone else.'
In the mid-century, after a historically conditioned lull, designers declared a new female idol—mink. Since then, this fur has maintained a steady reputation as both prestigious and 'popular' at the same time.
In the hippie 1970s, long-haired fur was in fashion, while in the minimalist 1990s, on the contrary, completely smooth fur. Fashion designers constantly worked on methods of processing skins and learned to make cheap fur resemble expensive fur and vice versa, as well as imitate various fabrics (silk, velvet).
Carte blanche for the winter of 2014-2015
Due to the abundance of fur, the fur coat has almost ceased to be an unconditional status symbol as it once was. This even applies to mink. A truly high-quality mink coat still costs a lot, but stores are vying to offer discounts and the most affordable models made from small pieces of noble fur.
Almost the only bastion of fur prestige today is sable. The cost of a fur coat made from this fur is comparable to the price of a brand new car. This is not surprising: due to its thermal qualities and undeniable beauty, sable has been held in high esteem since ancient times. In a sense, a sable coat can still serve as a monetary means: if you get tired of it after a couple of seasons, it is easy to get rid of it at a good price through buy-and-sell websites (the fur is very durable and remains in good condition for a long time).
On the other hand, why such crazy spending when democratic furs have finally come back into fashion? The world's top fashionistas flaunt in fur coats made of llama, yak, goat, muton. Designers have worked so hard on the dressing and styles that they are unrecognizable: they look much more stylish than boring classics like brown mink, and go well with everyday clothes, even jeans and sneakers.
Animal rights activists can be pleased: faux fur has finally been recognized as trendy, and it seems this is only the beginning. Fortunately, it no longer resembles the stiff 'Cheburashka coat' remembered by every Soviet girl. But it is important to choose an artificial fur coat correctly, and that is the main catch so far: the selection is not exactly large, and the best models cost no less than their natural fur counterparts. Another snag is that not every eco-fur coat warms as well as a natural one, so some manufacturers include a warming lining in the products (it is better to clarify this issue in advance when purchasing).
The main principle of choosing an eco-fur coat is to step away from the classics. Do not imitate natural sable, mink, chinchilla, or other prestigious fur. The best models feature non-classical styles and are made from cheerful colored fur, with the pile possibly long or short.
In the new season, eco-fur coats in patchwork style (from pieces of various colored fur) as well as printed models are also trendy. Even a leopard pattern, long out of favor, is acceptable. Such a riot of color can quickly get boring, but it will also be worn with more pleasure than something trivial.
The ancient tradition of wearing a fur coat with the fur inside has not died. It has been creatively reinterpreted, and now you can feel like a Russian boyar lady by purchasing a parka jacket with a lining of natural thick, luxurious fur. This idea is part of the concept of 'hidden luxury', which has been gaining strength in recent years not only in fashion but also in interior design, architecture, and automotive engineering. Such an outwardly unpretentious 'fur coat' will appeal to those who love sporty style but do not want an ordinary jacket with synthetic padding or down.
There is not much time left to properly prepare your wardrobe for the cold. A fur coat – artificial or natural, expensive or budget – will long remain the queen of winter fashion, so it definitely deserves a place in your closet.
Yulia VERBI.
«Lenta.ru»