Photo by Dmitri ONISHCHUK
Zurich: a romantic city-safe
For many of our compatriots, acquaintance with the country of the most delicious chocolate and precise watches begins in Zurich – it is here that flights from Kiev arrive several times a week. After just over two hours of flight and a short taxi ride or a comfortable minibus, guests of the world's banking capital are surprised by its inconsistency with the stereotypes pre-prepared by their imagination: this serious city in a tie and strict suit turns out to be unexpectedly soft and romantic. Instead of the steel bulletproof profile of the 'global bank vault,' we are greeted by cozy streets with colorful houses and medieval signs.
The most reasonable start to getting to know Switzerland is a walk along Zurich's main street – Bahnhofstrasse, where most elegant shops and representative offices of famous couturiers are located. The solid burgher style (after all, Zurich belongs to the German-speaking part of multifaceted Switzerland) is only slightly diluted by metal sculptures of funny human figures and other incomprehensible statues. The most expensive street in the world ends quite worthily – with a view of Lake Zurich. From it flows the Limmat River, which carries its waters under numerous arches of bridges through the largest city in Switzerland. And although by global standards Zurich is small (population is only about 360,000 people), it has reasons to be proud.
In the old part of the city along the banks, buildings have been preserved that take us back to the Middle Ages. On the left bank is the City Hall with its famous neo-Gothic gable, behind it rises the elegant spire of Fraumünster, founded under King Louis IV. Further on is the Protestant Church of St. Peter, known throughout Europe for one of the largest clock faces on its bell tower. The main attraction of the city is the Grossmünster with two towers and basilicas, built in the 12th century. Zurich has more than 30 museums, among which the most famous are the Swiss National Museum, the Kunsthaus, and the Museum of Applied Arts. Of course, many famous personalities left their mark on the city's history, including the notorious Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov. Richard Wagner, James Joyce, Gottfried Keller are just a few of the celebrities who lived on the banks of the Limmat River.
By the way, about water. It was in Zurich that we observed in the crystal clear waters of the Limmat schools of large trout slowly drifting towards the main banking street. We were told about the years-long waiting lists for yacht berths on the shores of Lake Zurich and the high cost of local land. And we were not surprised, noticing construction work on the riverbank in the city center. We thought: they are probably reclaiming another piece of land from the river to sell it at a higher price – after all, it's a city of bankers! And we were shocked by the answer of our accompanying representative from the Zurich Tourist Office, Aurelia Carlen. No, it turns out the opposite – they are widening the river to bring it back to the same appearance as it was two centuries ago.
It seems that the Swiss know not only how to earn money but also how to spend it wisely – for their physical and moral health. After all, their bankers head straight to the lake after lunch to cool off during the lunch break. And they dive along with the local youth, shoving away the brazen swans...
Here we also tried crystal clear and delicious Alpine water for the first time. It turns out you can drink it straight from the fountains, of which there are a great many in Swiss cities and villages. We did not see a warning sign with a crossed-out glass anywhere during our week-long stay in the country. And thanks to the Swiss Railways, we visited many places. The travel system operating in the country - Swiss Travel System – is a wonderful option to see several of the most beautiful regions of the country in one day. Our route began in Zurich, from where the road goes past five magnificent mountain lakes, Mount Pilatus (1,001 meters above sea level), then the train arrives in Interlaken – the tourist capital of Bernese Oberland.
Interlaken: Bond was here
'City between lakes' (that's exactly what the name means) is located between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz, from which its name derives. It is the oldest resort in the country, known for its beautiful panoramic view of the Jungfrau mountain range. However, tourism as we know it appeared here only at the beginning of the 19th century, when artists and writers – many of them British – were attracted to the city by the beauty of its nature. Railway connections increased the flow of tourists, including such famous ones as Mark Twain. Goethe, Wagner, Mendelssohn, as well as representatives of European royal families. It was apparently to accommodate the latter that the most luxurious hotel in Interlaken was once created – the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa 5*. This beautiful elegant hotel, built in the mid-19th century, combines fidelity to old traditions with modern high-level service.
And from the windows of the rooms, a mesmerizing view of the mountain range opens up: somewhere up there is a round building – a 360-degree rotating panoramic restaurant, where according to the script, Bond himself – James Bond – misbehaved. It is from Interlaken that you can take a funicular to the highest mountain conquered by the famous agent 007 (Schilthorn, 3,000 meters). Here they filmed his thrilling ski chase in the film 'On Her Majesty's Secret Service,' brilliantly repeated later in 'The Spy Who Loved Me' and 'A View to a Kill.' By the way, the house where the escape from the castle was filmed is real and has been on the summit of Schilthorn since 1967. Not surprising – from here there is a stunning view of the Alps with a panorama of two hundred peaks.
But let us return to Interlaken. The easiest way to see the city is simply to take a stroll through it, enjoying the panoramic views. While walking, you will definitely see horse-drawn carriages (fiakers), as well as many hotels, cafes and gardens. In the park in the city center, you can come across the ruins of an Augustinian monastery, founded in Interlaken in 1130, but closed during the Reformation (they say it was not without scandal – the monks' love affairs became impossible to hide in the atmosphere of a resort town). The city's tourism museum is the first regional museum in the country, showing the development of tourism in Switzerland over the last two centuries. After all, Interlaken is a true paradise for lovers of active recreation. In summer, you can go mountain biking, rafting, swimming and even paragliding. And winter sports attract skiers, curling enthusiasts and tobogganers.
The city also offers entertainment for the soul. Every August, a music festival takes place here, one of the important events in classical music in Switzerland, attracting leading orchestras and soloists from around the world. Many concerts, performances and folk evenings are held on ordinary days as well. And if fate brings you together with a representative of the local tourist office, Susanne Daxelhoffer, you will be guaranteed to enjoy the sound of Tyrolean yodels performed by local residents.
Montreux: Jazz Mood
But it is time for us to move on. Another transfer in Interlaken and the panoramic train carries us through mountain aqueducts, past blue lakes, to the land of Swiss winemakers. Take a deep breath and look around. On the southern side lies Lake Geneva, surrounded on all sides by the Alps. Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, as well as dozens of other mountain peaks, rise several kilometers into the sky. If you look east or west, you can see vineyards covering the terraces of miniature country houses, reflecting the calm and measured life of this region. To the north stretch the Alpine mountain ranges – a region of ski resorts, a favorite place for balloonists, hang gliders and ordinary tourists. And in the center of all this splendor lies the tiny charming Montreux – the pearl of the Swiss Riviera.
Once it was just a small fishing village on the shore of Lake Geneva, surrounded on all sides by mountains, vineyards, fields and forests. At the end of the 18th century, Jean-Jacques Rousseau chose this beautiful romantic landscape for writing his book 'Julie, or the New Heloise'. Tourists began to discover this place in the second half of the 19th century, and by the end of the century, Montreux gained worldwide fame thanks to its amazing microclimate. Not surprisingly, this city became a second home for people such as Vladimir Nabokov and Charlie Chaplin. Great people knew where to settle!
However, even more celebrities visit Montreux not only to enjoy its surrounding views. People come here for beauty and health. After all, it is here that one of the world's most famous aesthetic medicine clinics is located – La Prairie, which helps shed a couple of extra decades. It is said that the clinic was once honored with a visit by the first Soviet president…
Modern Montreux is also a rich cultural center. During our trip, a jazz festival was just taking place here, conceived 40 years ago by Swiss enthusiast Claude Nobs. Already in the first years of its existence, the Montreux Jazz Festival gained worldwide fame, making the town on Lake Geneva famous around the world. Every year the festival changed: the dates became longer (from three days in 1967 to sixteen this year), and the lineup of participants became more diverse. Not only jazz masters and young talents give concerts in Montreux, but also rock musicians who were once trendy and are now 'classic'. This year, among other celebrities, Bryan Adams performed in Montreux.
According to knowledgeable people, the phenomenon of the Montreux festival, attracting 250,000 visitors annually, lies in its special festive atmosphere. During the festival, the entire city literally becomes one huge stage, which, combined with the comfortable European resort atmosphere, creates a unique 'cultural vacation'. Moreover, in addition to the large ticketed stages (three halls: Auditorium Stravinski, Miles Davis Hall and Casino), there is a so-called 'off' program, i.e., 'outside' the main event, during which tourists can listen to live music for free in clubs, open-air venues and other public places. And it is not a street hand-out with money collected in a hat: the selection of performers for the 'off' program is also quite strict. It is an addition to the main program, as performances take place from noon to seven in the evening, while the main program begins later.
But we still have a couple of free hours, and we ask our guide Virginie Barras to show us the ancient fortress – Chillon Castle, which is located above Montreux. As early as the 10th century, along a narrow strip between the steep cliff and the lake, there was a road to Italy. Some enterprising native could not but take advantage of the convenient location of the popular route and built a fortress here, simultaneously collecting tolls from passing merchants. Soon the castle expanded and even acquired its own prison, into which once fell a supporter of church reform in Geneva, Bonivard. This extraordinary person became famous thanks to Lord Byron, who wrote the famous 'The Prisoner of Chillon'. During one of his travels, the poet even scratched his name on one of the castle's columns; tourists can still see this autograph under a glass plaque…
Lausanne: Choice of Kings
Now let's head to the northern shore of Lake Geneva, where Lausanne, the capital of the canton of Vaud, is located. This smallest of the "big five" major cities of Switzerland is rightfully considered one of the most interesting and amazing cities in Europe. Situated on steep hills and washed by the waters of Lake Léman (known to us as Lake Geneva), the city fascinates with its architecture and landscapes.
Lausanne has a long-standing reputation as the Olympic capital. Since 1915, the headquarters of the Olympic Committee, as well as many other sports organizations, have been located here. The Lausanne Palace hotel became the true home of the Olympic Committee. Here, for 21 years of his tenure as chairman of the committee, Juan Antonio Samaranch lived, and now the new head of the Olympians lives here as well.
By the way, the history of this hotel is inextricably linked with the history of the city itself. Lausanne Palace was the only hotel in Switzerland opened in 1911 during World War I. In 1915, the first person to sign the guest book was James Gordon Bennett, the son of the founder of the New York Herald. Subsequently, this book was filled with other equally famous names, including royalty (Prince Albert of Monaco, English Princess Anne, Greek King Constantine), people of the art world (Igor Stravinsky, Duke Ellington, Eros Ramazzotti, Patricia Kaas), famous fashion designers (Coco Chanel, Gianni Versace) and many others.
Lausanne is famous for its majestic Gothic Cathedral of St. Francis (1145-1275). Here you should visit the Châteaux of St. Mary and Beaulieu, the Palais de Beaulieu exhibition center, Mon Repos park, and the university. The city has many theaters and various museums, and the rich Cinémathèque Suisse is also excellent. But the peculiarity of some tourists is that they do not always follow established tourist routes. For example, Russian guests like to do everything in a big way, and relax too. So, once the residents of Lausanne were pleasantly surprised by a magnificent fireworks display that was organized on one quiet Christmas evening on the meadow in front of Lake Geneva especially for the Russian-speaking guests of the Lausanne Palace. How can one not recall the still relevant anecdote about the new Russian who sits on the edge of an Alpine mountain and throws expensive Swiss watches into the abyss. 'He's watching how time flies,' the guide calmly explains to the stunned tourists.
By the way, from the country of chocolate and watchmaking masters, you can bring back not just a good timepiece as a souvenir, but also часы с символикой, which will be prepared especially for you in specialized stores. And what symbolism to adorn this wonderful gift with is up to you.
Leukerbad: A Resort Romance
Since we mentioned the mountains, which, by the way, occupy three-quarters of the entire territory of Switzerland, let's head to the southern part of the country. Here, at an altitude of 1,411 meters above sea level, lies Leukerbad - a typical Alpine Swiss resort known for its thermal springs and health facilities. The first thermal baths appeared here as early as 1500. Today, for lovers of water treatments, the resort has 22 open and covered thermal pools, through which 3.9 million liters of healing water (51 degrees) flow daily. The resort is open year-round and offers a rare combination of opportunities for diverse and complete recreation.
Leukerbad, located in the midst of a pine forest, expands the usual notion of a quiet holiday at thermal springs. In addition to traditional water treatments and special wellness courses, the mountain climate and sunny weather, characteristic of the southern Swiss Alps at any time of year, have a wonderful effect on health and mood. From December to March, the resort belongs to fans of alpine and cross-country skiing, who rush to combine sports pleasures with bathing in hot outdoor pools, especially pleasant in combination with the frosty freshness of the air. In summer, autumn, and spring, the special beauty of the landscapes invites hiking in the mountains and sunbathing. This period is also especially favorable for therapeutic courses.
Amazingly, this small town, with only 1,500 inhabitants, welcomes 900,000 tourists a year. So don't be surprised if you suddenly hear Russian speech in some souvenir shop – tourists from the former Soviet Union are already regular guests here. And the price and quality variety of hotels, apartments, and pensions makes the resort equally attractive for family vacations, youth groups, and middle-aged clients.
We thank the Moscow office of the Swiss National Tourism Corporation and personally Maria Makarova for the wonderfully organized trip. More details about tourism opportunities in Switzerland can be found on the website MySwitzerland.ru – Switzerland Tourism.